The Rolex GMT-Master II, particularly the iconic "Coke" bezel variant with its red and black aluminum insert, holds a special place in the hearts of watch enthusiasts. Among these coveted timepieces, the 1989 models, often referred to as "Fat Ladies" due to their slightly larger case compared to later iterations, command significant attention and value within the collector's market. This article delves into the allure of the 1989 Rolex GMT-Master II "Coke" (reference 16760), exploring its history, design features, current market value, and the factors that contribute to its desirability. We'll also touch upon related models and current market trends to provide a comprehensive overview for both seasoned collectors and those newly discovering the world of vintage Rolex.
The example advertised on Chrono24, a 1989 Rolex GMT-Master II Fat Lady Coke (16760) with its accompanying box, priced at $11,992 plus $129 shipping, serves as a perfect starting point for our discussion. This price point reflects the current market demand for well-preserved examples of this specific reference. The inclusion of the original box significantly enhances the value, as complete sets with original accessories are highly sought after by collectors. This particular watch showcases the enduring appeal of a classic design and the investment potential of owning a piece of horological history.
The Allure of the "Fat Lady":
The term "Fat Lady" isn't a derogatory term; rather, it's a term of endearment among collectors who appreciate the subtle differences in the case design of the 16760 compared to its successors. The slightly larger case, thicker lugs, and overall bolder presence contribute to its distinctive character. While the 16710 (a later reference) is also a highly collectible GMT-Master II, the 16760 holds a special place due to its vintage appeal and the perceived robustness of its construction. The transition from the 16760 to the 16710 marked a shift in Rolex's manufacturing processes, with some collectors preferring the perceived higher quality of the earlier models.
The Iconic "Coke" Bezel:
The defining characteristic of this particular GMT-Master II is, of course, the "Coke" bezel. This bi-color aluminum bezel, with its vibrant red and black sections, is a visually striking element that immediately identifies the watch. The red section represents nighttime hours, while the black represents daytime hours, making it a highly functional and aesthetically pleasing design feature. The condition of the bezel is crucial in determining the value of a vintage GMT-Master II. Fading, discoloration, or damage to the bezel can significantly impact its worth. The perfect, crisp delineation between the red and black segments is a highly sought-after characteristic.
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